A New Century

We have now reached a new century, and no doubt the wedding gown will carry on changing in fabric and altering in form. But there is equally no doubt that it will remain with us. Since the civil wedding laws were relaxed in the 1990s, allowing marriages to be conducted almost any where; even those with no religious convictions can have a beautiful setting. As wedding fashion continues to evolve separately from the general vogue, people have felt freer to allow full rein for their imaginations.

Carolina Herrera's gown; although not traditional was featured on the cover of Martha Stewart Weddings

Today, we see lace, pearls, simple fabrics, silks, a rouched bodice, long trains or short. The pick up in the skirt has made it in and out  of  fashion and more and more brides are adding details to their simple skirts making the train easier to bustle.  Ivory, champagne, white or blush — anything goes. Of course the timeless dress is still a simple A-line skirt or modified ballgown, strapless top, simple French bustle, and a little bit of beading and maybe even some lace. With so many beautiful lace options, lace is used to add the feminine touch, but added in such a way that the gown is modern in form. Every designer from the highest end has at least one gown showcasing lace bringing back some of the traditions from long ago.

This duchess satin gown by Amsale features a modified ballgown skirt and one shoulder detail.

Corsette bodice and full skirt by Reem Acra

Reem Acra's Flowers and beading; A tradition you'll see today and in the 1800's.

The Color of the Gown

Today a popular choice includes adding a sash or flower in a special color

The color of a gown was a popular source of luck.  Those who rely on their happiness and superstition had to select the right color gown. White, or a variation of white, was a favorite and symbolized a girl’s virginity and innocence in the face of her imminent change of state. But it was not a practical shade for most purposes and it was not always the favorite choice. Blue, with its associations with the Virgin Mary, was another strong symbol of purity, which also traditionally symbolized fidelity and eternal love (hence the popularity of the sapphire in engagement rings). Brides who wore blue believed their husbands would always be true to them, so even if their gown itself was not blue, they would be sure to wear something blue. This is another tradition that has survived to this day.

Pink was another popular color, considered most suitable for a May wedding. It is flattering to most complexions and associated with girlhood, but some superstitions held it to be unlucky – “Marry in pink and your fortunes will sink”! The deeper shade of red was definitely taboo by Victorian times, with its reference to scarlet women and hussies. An unpopular shade was green. This was considered the fairies color, and it was bad luck to call the attention of the little folk to oneself during a time of transition. Also linked with the lushness of foliage, it was held to make rain spoil the big day.

Do you think Vera Wang did her homework prior to introducing so many wedding gowns in various colors.  Although the modern bride might be willing to step out of the box, her guests may be left to wonder!  We’ll have to wait to see if anyone is daring enough to make Vera’s new collection flourish or will it flop.  Let’s face it, tradition is still expected and with so many options we’ll see if tradition is still most important.

This makes a great evening gown but would you consider it for your wedding?

Up until the nineteenth century ribbons would be tied into bows or “love knots” and loosely attached to the dress. These “bride laces” would be pulled off by the guests during the post ceremony festivities, and kept as wedding favors, or souvenirs. This custom gradually died out, being replaced by flowers instead. Guests would be given floral button-holes to wear, and the bride might wear flowers in her hair or as a corsage or garland around her skirts, or else carry them in a bouquet. Rosemary and myrtle were early favorites, and orange blossom became popular in the 1830s.  The floral tradition lives on and most brides, no matter how simply dressed, will have a flower in her hair or carry a bouquet.

Carolina Herrera's hand painted watercolor inspired gown has a hint of blue undertone yet keeps a traditional look.

A Brief History of the Wedding Dress

The wedding gown is unique.  Throughout history, women have tried to make their wedding dress special by personalizing the look or to go along with a theme. Royal princesses have always tried to be most princess-like on their wedding days. In medieval times, when royal marriages were of great political importance and used to seal alliances between two countries, it was necessary for the young bride to look magnificent and to uphold the prestige of her country. Her jewelry was important and used to symbolize her Dowry.  During this time, they used as much material as they possibly could.  The most expensive fabrics were  velvet, damask silk, satin, fur and fabrics woven with gold and silver thread. In days when all fabrics were hand spun woven and dyed and economical use of it was the norm, the skirts would be gathered and full, the sleeves would sweep the floor and trains would fall behind to a length of several meters. Colors would be rich; only the wealthy could afford expensive red, purple and true black dyes.  Additionally, the dress would be sewn with precious gems – diamonds, rubies, sapphires, emeralds and pearls – so the bride would glitter and flash in the sunlight.

Black was the traditional color for every bridal gown.

It is very common even today that a bride copies the look of a celebrity or royalty.  The status of a bride was noted in the style and fabrics she wore.  A noblewoman would do her best with gems and fur trimmings. A well-to-do middle class woman would aspire to velvet or silk fabrics, and because she could not usually afford mink or sable, she would wear fox, or rabbit fur to impress her friends. The poor bride’s dress would be of linen, or fine wool, instead of the usual coarse homespun, and she would use as much fabric as she could. For an everyday girl, clothes would normally be as sparingly cut as was decent, so a gown with flowing sleeves or a train was a big status symbol.  The long train goes in and out of fashion but like everything in fashion, bridal repeats itself.  Currently, Vera Wang has introduced a new collection of black gowns and other jewel tones for the bride who is daring enough to step out of the box.  Reem Acra continues to redesign the traditional ballgown–some with heavy embroidery and some without but always keeping the skirt modified for the traditional bride.

Princess Di made history with her gorgeous gown...a true sign of royalty.

On a final note, blue  was the symbol of purity in the Middle Ages, expressed at wedding ceremonies by a band of blue ribbon worn by both bride and groom. It inspired the “something blue” rhyme that every bride lives by today!

This Carolina Herrera gown features a blue ribbon at the top of the halter and all the way down the bride's back.